So you’ve just paid a small fortune for your log cabin, you’ve probably stumped up a considerable outlay to get a suitable base laid, but what about the aftercare? 99% of all the complaints I’ve been involved in could be traced back to an inadequate application of finish. A considerable investment has been made in the preparation and purchase of a log cabin but then it’s all put in jeopardy with the purchase of a cheap, or poor finish.
Moisture is the enemy of timber, especially atmospheric moisture known as relative humidity. A length of timber is basically a honeycomb network of cells and these cells are constantly changing due to the moisture content of their cell walls. If relative humidity is high then the cell walls will gain moisture and expand, which in turn causes the timber to increase in size. Alternatively, when relative humidity is low the cell walls will contract causing the timber to decrease in size which may lead to gaps appearing in your log cabin walls. Just as relative humidity levels are constantly changing, so too are the cells of the timber. Click here for a more detailed look at how moisture effects timber.
Lets take a look at how this constant movement affects your log cabin:
Contraction Problems
All of the above photos are examples of logs not settling after they’ve contracted. The biggest problem with log cabin contraction is the gaps appearing in the log cabin walls. The logs of a cabin are not held in place by metal fixings such as nails or screws, in fact this would exacerbate the problem. Instead the logs are held in place by their interlocking joints at each corner, and the tongue and groove jointing that run the longitudinal length top and bottom of each log. The walls of a log cabin are designed in such a way that as the logs expand and contract the weight of the roof and the subsequent logs above keep them all interlocked and allow the walls to move in unison. If an unsuitable or poor finish has been used, as shown in these pictures, then excessive movement will occur causing gaps to appear inbetween the logs of the log cabin walls. It’s worth noting that these cabins were all treated with a major high street brand that offers an extensive choice of colours and 6 years weatherproof protection. The end result was each log cabin owner was left with a very colourful cabin with lots of gaps appearing in the log cabin walls. Some of these cabins had more shrinkage in the short logs that fit between the windows and doors than the longer logs that form the corners and meet the windows. In this scenario it’s either a very long wait for the logs to take on the required amount of moisture again, which will close the gaps appearing in the log cabin walls, or replace the short logs.
More commonly the logs of these cabin have shrunk excessively until the main log that sits above the doors and windows (which is usually notched to fit over the windows and doors) is now resting directly on the top of the doors and windows and taking the weight of the roof. There isn’t any weight pressing down on the logs below and they just shrink and sit loosely and this is a major cause of gaps appearing in a log cabin wall. The easiest way to rectify this problem is to take the doors and windows out and cut the recesses deeper (usually another 25 to 30mm) in the notched log. It may need someone to stand on the roof to provide a bit of extra weight which will get the logs sitting back in their grooves. The windows and doors can then be re-fitted without any problems. Contraction issues are common throughout the summer months when the air is warm and dry and relative humidity levels are low.
Expansion
As you can see from the photos above the main issues with expansion affect the floor and roof, but the log walls cope very well due to their ‘free floating’ design. The floor and roof are usually nailed down to the bearers or rafters but as the boards swell with moisture the force pulls the nails out until the boards push up at their weakest point. There is also a photo which shows how this force has torn the roofing felt as the roof boards have expanded which then lead to the cabin leaking.
Again, a poor or unsuitable treatment will fail to stabilise the timber which contributes to the issues, but also if the cabin is treated once it’s erected then the underside of the floorboards, and the topside of the roof boards won’t be treated, and as we now know relative humidity is a greater enemy than rainwater, so these boards are effectively constantly exposed to moisture. To prevent excessive expansion, I would treat the underside of the floorboards and topside of the roof boards with Timmersol Exterior Timber Stabiliser before the cabin is built.
Secondly, instead of securing the roof and floorboards in place with the supplied nails, I would use 60mm to 70mm deck screws and make sure the boards are double screwed wherever they intersect a roof bearer or floor joist. This will ensure that any movement is held in check by the deck screws.
Always remember that it’s just as important to stabilise the interior of you cabin as it is the exterior due to relative humidity.
The old saying that you only get what you pay for certainly rings true when it comes to an exterior wood finish. Untreated timber is an extremely volatile material when exposed to the elements, and it’s the quality of the finish applied which calms this volatility. Due to the very nature of its construction, a log cabin’s timbers require a high quality exterior stabiliser to limit this movement, thus eliminating the problems highlighted above.
Timmersol Exterior Timber Stabiliser has been specifically formulated for log cabins and decking because they require a high quality finish. We promote the fact that it contains a blend of oils, waxes, and resins to accomplish stabilisation and the solvent carrier suspends these weatherproofing ingredients to allow the application of multiple coats. It is a stand alone anti-weather system, but can also be used as a top coat and sealer which compliments any of the more colourful high street brand of finishes. To find out more about our products click here
If you decide that Timmersol ETS isn’t for you, always check with the manufacturer if their treatment is suitable for a log cabin and how it actually repels moisture. Don’t just accept what they’re implying on the packaging, phone their technical helpline and challenge them, after all one phone call may save hours or days of additional work by preventing things from going wrong.
If you have an issue with your log cabin and need help then feel free to leave a comment below. Alternatively email us at info@timmersol.co.uk and we’ll be glad to help.
158 responses to “Avoiding log cabin problems”
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Hi Pete,
I’ve just come across this article and have read through the comments. There is some extremely useful information here, particularly regarding gaps appearing when logs are prevented from settling properly.
I have a Dunster House Terminator log cabin with some settlement/gapping issues and, having read your replies to others with similar problems, I’d really appreciate your advice.
I noticed the last replies were in October 2025, so before posting all the details I just wanted to check whether you’re still monitoring this thread and happy to offer advice?
Many thanks,
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Hi Jafar,
Yes I’m still monitoring the comments on this post. Please send me an email at info@timmersol.co.uk and I’ll do my best to help you with your issue(s)Pete
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Hi
I came across Timmersol after seeing a comment on a YouTube cabin build video. My Dunster House Terminator 4m x 3m with 34mm thick ‘logs’ is being delivered in the next couple of weeks, and the comments on here regarding expansion has got me worried about gaps/movement. I’m glad I found all of this feedback and support before building it.
Can you recommend which products I should be using please, and when and how they should be applied. The cabin will be painted too, so advice on when to do this would be helpful too. If it is best to treat and wait for it to cure before painting, then i’m happy to do this.
Any help and advice would be much appreciated
For further info, i’m building it on a 4m x 3m grid base filled with pea gravel. I’ll be using hardcore, tamped down as solid and as level as I can, to avoid things being out of square, but I hadn’t even considered expansion. Log cabin providers should be educating buyers on wood treatment. It’d save them a lot of headache and after-sales support.
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Hello Pete,
Thank you for providing access to this thread — I’ve found it very informative, especially learning from others’ experiences ahead of my own Powersheds 16′ × 14′ cabin build.
Do you recommend any particular wood preserver to use before applying Timmersol? Powersheds include 5 L of Protek++ wood preserver with their cabins, but this won’t be enough to cover the whole structure, so I’ll need to purchase more. I understand you generally prefer solvent-based products, but I believe Protek++ is water-based.
I’ll also be installing PIR insulation below the floor and above the roof boards — would you recommend treating both the floor and roof boards on both sides before fitting?
Thanks in advance,
Alex-
Hi Alex,
I try to answer as many questions as possible through the thread so others can get the benefit of my experience. Elaborate responses with photos, etc are always via email.
I actually prefer water based products where possible. Water based products are easier to clean up, don’t smell, etc but they just do not prevent log cabins from leaking through the end grain or stabilise the movement of the timber. You need a product with a high content of oil and wax and the solvent to carry it into the timber’s cells. That’s what makes our product so perfect for log cabins.As far as preserver goes it doesn’t matter if it’s solvent based or water based. i normally recommend Cuprinol Clear preserver because it’s relatively cheap compared to other preservers, is readily available, and contains the same ingredients as every other preserver out there, don’t be fooled by the ++ of Protek’s preserver, the amount of biocides that can be used in a preserver intended for the general public is restricted by law so it doesn’t contain any more biocides than any other preserver, but as Power Sheds are already giving you a ‘free’ tin I would top up the remainder with the same product for compatibility purposes.
I would definitely recommend treating the underside of the floorboards and the floor bearers before installation. If you get any driving rain settle under the cabin the last thing you want is for it to soak up into the bearers and accelerate rotting. Treating the bearers provides a first line of defence against this. Treating the underside of the floorboards will really help with dimensional stability and provide a second line of defence against any moisture that does soak up through the bearers.
As you’re installing insulation on top of the roof I would also highly recommend applying our Log cabin Treatment to the topside of the roof boards for added dimensional stability.
I don’t recommend it if EPDM is being installed directly to the roof as our treatment will repel the glue.Hope that helps but if you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to ask, either via this thread or email me directly at info@timmersol.com
Pete
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Hi Pete,
About to purchase ETS in preparation for our log cabin being delivered and installed, approx. how much do I need to purchase for a 14 x 8 ft 44mm log cabin if giving the recommended number of coats? Apologies if this has been asked before.
Thanks,
Gary
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Hi Gary,
For a cabin of that size, applying the recommended 3 coats you’ll need 5 litres for the exterior and 10 litres for the interior, which includes the floor and ceiling.Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi Pete,
Our log cabin is constructed and we have treated both inside and out with Solugard Woodworm and Rot Treatment. We understand we now have the option to apply a water-based paint followed by 2 coats of Timmersol, or alternatively 3 coats of Timmersol. We would prefer the former, but have a couple of questions for you.1. Does the water-based paint have to be for external buildings (i.e. not just internal emulsion)?
2. Are there any brands that are NOT recommended? We have our eye on a brand called GORI.
3. Probably our most important question: how long is the treatment expected to last, and what is the follow-up treatment recommendation. By that I mean how long will the initial treatment last (probably weather-dependent), and how should we do future treatments. Will the whole thing need sanded down and Timmersol re-applied? How many coats? Does the advice change if we have painted first? We live near a sea loch if that is helpful information!If the painting option is more onerous, we may choose to apply the three coats of Timmersol instead of 1 paint and 2 Timmersol. Would be really grateful for your advice!
Thank you so much.
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Treating T&G connections between Logs.
Is it worth applying a cost of ETS on the T&G connections between wall logs during the build?
Ta
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Hi Matthew,
If you have the time and space there is some benefit yes. It will prevent the tongue from shrinking and creating a gap when in the groove, but most log cabin manufacturers provide logs with double T&G to prevent leaking if such an event does occur, so it’s not imperative. More importantly I would highly recommend treating the joins where the logs cross over in the corners and all the end grain.Pete
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Hi Peter
I’ve just had a Dunster house terminator log cabin built but before I had a chance to treat it (it was only 2 weeks) some of the corners have already warped. It has now had two coats of Barrettine universal wood preserver and I plan on doing extra coats on the log ends, then giving two coats of the Barrettine log cabin treatment. Is this going to be enough to prevent future issues, as I’d rather prevent than cure?! Also Dunster House recommend using storm braces but my builder thinks I’m better just screwing braces into the logs to prevent it from moving, so I’m in a dilemma what to do. Just came across this blog as had never previously heard of ETS. Any advice would be gratefully received, thank you.-
Hi Carol,
You don’t need to apply extra coats of preserver to the end grain, a preserver is applied to prevent rot, fungi, and wood boring insects, although in my opinion its efficacy is very debatable. Also I would definitely recommend our own Log Cabin Treatment over Barrettines. They use a dearomatised solvent which inhibits it’s performance, hence the reason they state you can’t apply it over other products, where as ours is fully aromatised, can be readily applied over other products and it will still penetrate deeply into the timber and will completely seal the end grain. Can you send a couple of photos to info@timmersol.co.uk so I can have a look at the warping?Regards,
Pete
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Hi,
I have had my cabin for 9 months. I have only stained it, as wasn’t told about treating it!!
Now have many 2cm gaps in the slats and joints, it looks off now!! I have done what the company have asked and loosened all the storm braces, but not seeing much movement. Will they go back, I have read that the doors and windows might need to come off, but I know nothing about how to do this.
Sorry getting very stressed about it, as wet weather is due and will have to cover the gaps!!
Thanks
Alison-
Hi Alison,
I can definitely help you get this sorted. Can you start by telling me who you bought it from and what the model is please?
Cheers,Pete
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Hi Peter,
I’ve recently bought a can of EDS as I’ve got problems with water getting in. Can you let me know if I can put wood preserver on top of an already painted cabin and will it penetrate the wood beyond the existing covering? So far I’ve used a water based paint which isn’t keeping the water out especially at the log ends! If that will work I was thinking a couple of coats of preserver, a couple of coats of paint then a couple of EDS. Does that sound reasonable?
Many thanks,Chris
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Hi Chris,
Any preserver you apply now won’t penetrate through the existing paint. The only solvent based preserver I’m aware of now is made by Barrettine and their’s uses dearomatised solvent which, unlike the aromatised solvent in our ETS, is nowhere near strong enough to reactivate the paint ingredients and pass through into the timber. If you have a mould problem due to the water ingress inside your cabin then spray a household bathroom mould remover over it and leave it (you may need to apply it more than once). If you’re going to paint it then just sand it out before applying the paint. As you say a couple of coats of paint followed by 2 coats of our ETS will suffice.Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi Pete,
We built out log cabin last June and game it 2 coats of Timmersol inside and out. No problems whatsoever so far. The front is south facing, when should we look to repaint? Thanks-
Hi Phillip,
What a great question!
Our ETS offers weather protection for up to 15 years. It’s ultra performance value lies in the fact that it forms a triple barrier with wax and oil penetrating the timber, whilst a coat of resin seals the surface. The resin is what causes the rainwater to bead on the surface of the timber. Because it sits on the timber’s surface resin is readily exposed to, and degraded by the UV rays of the sun, usually within 12 months or so depending on the aspect of the building, and as a result the rainwater stops beading. At this point it’s easy to assume the ETS is no longer offering any weather proofing protection but that’s definitely not the case. The wax and oil that has penetrated the timber is not exposed to the sun’s UV rays so isn’t subject to any UV degredation. It continues to offer protection against moisture ingress, ensuring the timber is sealed from within, protecting your cabin from leaking, and stabilising the timber to protect against movement realated issues. The end grain will also remain sealed preventing leaking into the interior corners of the cabin, an extremely common problem during the wetter months, caused by treatments and paints relying too heavily on resin only protection. We’re one of very few, if any, treatments currently available which seals the end grain, and for such a long length of time.With regard to colour fade, because it’s a semi transparent finish, on a South facing aspect the sun can bleach the colour slightly faster than it would a solid colour. But the downside with a solid colour is you lose visibility of all the amazing grain patterns of the wood. In this scenario it’s a case of topping up the colour of the timber as and when it’s needed.
Hope that helps,
Pete
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Hi
How does the ETS differ from Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver? We have used this (which also contains wax) on our new summer house but still have problems with rainwater leaking in at the corners.
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Hi Sue,
Our ETS is a dedicated weather proofing treatment with an extremely high content of wax, oil, and resins. Wax and oil are quite expensive ingredients so a preserver will only contain very small quantities otherwise it becomes too expensive to market. In addition, too many ingredients dilute the biocides dramatically reducing the effectiveness of a preserver. Also, the solvent in our ETS is not dearomatized to reduce the smell like some of our competitors. Dearomatized solvent loses a lot of its performance capabilities but by keeping our solvent aromatised the solvent breaks the wax and oil down into it lowest atomic form, allowing for deeper penetration of the timber, with the timber penetration increasing as subsequent coats are applied.Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi Pete
Thanks for your reply.
Can the ETS be used over the Barrettine treatment?
Also, can it be used over CT1 sealant (we used this in the corners to try to stop the water coming in) or if we remove it, would the ETS ‘plug’ any small gaps between the logs?
Regards
Sue-
Hi Sue,
Yes you can use our ETS over barrettine Premier Wood Preserver, or any other preserver for that matter. It won’t harm the sealant you’ve used in the corners but in my experience the leaking is caused by the end grain letting in water rather than water penetrating those corners where the logs overlap. I’ve seen it on numerous occasions where the sealant is ok whilst the logs are full of moisture but when the logs contract in the warmer months the sealant starts peeling away from the logs, rendering it useless. My advice would be to remove the sealant and give your summerhouse 2 to 3 coats all over of our ETS, applying it liberally into any exposed end grain (unlike water based the more you apply the deeper it penetrates).Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi Peter,
I am really hoping you can help, We are at out wits end with it. We have painted the cabin with deluxe weathershield for wood and looks to be repelling water fine. This is a dunster house tongue and groove Terminator cabin. Inside the cabin in all the corners we are getting signs of damp, I have not finished the floor yet as we noticed after some rain it was all pooled in the corner of the cabin and all looks to be coming in right in the corner and runs down the bearer and all over the concrete floor. And comes through farely quickly after the rain starts or I test with the hose on sprinkle. I can’t imagine the water that comes in could come through the grains at the end of the wood. Could it? I would really appreciate any help you can give.
Kind Regards
Mr Lee Giles-
Hello Lee,
It’s definitely coming in through the end grain and the paint is the reason. It, like all other paints hasn’t sealed your end grain. Makes you wonder what kind of testing process is in place with all these paint manufacturers doesn’t it.Most paints rely purely on their binder or resin to give their paint some waterproofing qualities and the cheaper paints that contain wax (or oil) barely contain enough to offer any suitable weather proofing properties. Wax and oil are expensive ingredients and it’s a case of you only get what you pay for in this instance.
The reason resin doesn’t seal the end grain is because it cures (dries hard) within a couple of weeks of being applied. As it cures it contracts, which leaves a gap between the resin and the inner cell wall of each end grain. End grain is just a cross section of the timber’s cells called Tracheid Cells and they are super conducters of water designed to facilitate the flow of nutrients to and from different areas of the living tree. They work via osmosis so when the tree is felled and milled into timber the system is still fully functional.
The end grain also facilitates the most moisture ingress and egress, upto 80%, so paint doesn’t really regulate timber movement either. Unfortunately the paint you’ve applied probably looks great but hasn’t protected your cabin at all.
Fortunately our ETS can help. You can apply it over paint and the solvent carrier will allow the wax and oil to pass through into the logs. We’ve helped thousands of customers in the same situation as you. A couple of coats applied to the exterior and interior of your cabin will seal the end grain, seal the logs, prevent any further leaking, and help regulate moisture related movement of the logs. You only need to apply a single maintainance coat to the exterior every 5 to 6 years to maintain the protection it offers.
Hope this helps.
Pete
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Looking for some advice have recently built my cabin in last 2 weeks then came across this blog 🤦🏼. I have put 2 coats of wood preserver on it then 2 coats of Sadolin Classic then one coat of Sadolin Extra. Am unsure after reading through if this will help with end grains. Any thoughts.
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Hi Bryce,
Unfortunately both of the Sadolin products you’ve applied rely solely on resin as their weather proofing ingredient so won’t seal your end grain. You may be exceptionally lucky and not experience any leaking on your cabin, especially if it’s in a sheltered position, but even if it is the chances of it leaking based on the current treatment you’ve applied are high I’m afraid.Pete
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Is it possible to still add a few coats of ets over what I have on to try prevent problems.
Thank you for your response
Bryce-
Hi Bryce,
yes you most certainly can. This is one of the many benefits of solvent. It will reactivate the ingredients of the original treatment, unlinking the cross linking structure, allowing the wax and oil to penetrate the timber. This is why water based treatments and paint still contain solvent. The higher the solvent content the better the adhesion between coats. Solvent free paint and wood stain have very poor durability due to the lack of adhesion between coats.Regards,
Pete
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Fantastic and thank you for your help and advice. Would you recommend coating whole cabin or would just the recoating the end grains. Again thank you
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I would definitely recommend applying 2 coats to the whole cabin. That way not only will you protect your cabin from leaking but you’ll also reduce the movement of it too. Atmospheric moisture levels have been consistently average this year but as soon as we have another summer with very low relative humidity levels like we did in 2022 an awful lot of cabin owners are going to be experience a multitude of problems with their cabins. Why take the risk? If you’re going to apply it to the end grain you might as well go that bit further and apply it to the rest of the cabin too.
Hope that helps
Pete
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Hi Peter
Just come across this very useful thread! Wish I’d seen it earlier!
We had a log cabin built about 3 weeks ago. It’s had 3 coats of wood preserver followed by 2 coats of Protek Royal Exterior wood finish on the outside, as recommended. We went for the clear but know the wood will get grey over time so had intended to re-coat in about a year with a coloured stain.
Having read all the comments above, I am now wondering whether this protection will be enough for the end grains? I believe the exterior paint does contain linseed oil.
Thank you!
Kat
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Hi Kat,
The honest answer is I don’t know if the Royal Exterior will protect the end grain or not. I beleive the actual quantity of linseed oil is quite small whilst the main ingredient is Acrylic, plus it’s a true paint so will predominately sit on the surface of the timber with a small amount of penetration into the end grain from the first coat. All subsequent coats will sit on top of each other so no further penetration of the end grain. Even with just a small amount of penetration though the oil may be enough to seal it but it depends on just how much oil is actually in the paint. If it does leak you can always apply 3 coats of our ETS over the top of it. The solvent in the ETS will reactivate the paint allowing the wax and oil to pass through and penetrate the timber/end grain. Our ETS has been the saving grace for many cabin owners in this situation.Pete
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Thank you so much for your reply!
I would prefer to prevent issues rather than solve (if possible!!) so I am strongly considering getting some of your ETS to apply to the end grains over the top of the existing paint to give it that extra protection!
Your advice is much appreciated – thank you!
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No problem at all Kat. The best scenario would be for you to apply a couple of coats of ETS over the existing paint to ensure your cabin won’t leak, but I prefer for people to make up their own minds whether to make that decision as the advice I offer is genuine and I try to be as impartial as possible, whether people choose to buy a product or not. If you do apply the ETS over the existing paint you definitely won’t regret it. Your cabin vwill then be protected from leaking and excessive timber movement 🙂
Pete
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Hello Kat,
I’ve just finished solving an issue for a cabin owner who had leaking at the corner of his cabin and had used Protek Royal Exterior. To answer your original question, no it doesn’t seal the end grain.Pete
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Hi Peter – reading with much interest all you advice on here.
I have 2 questions that I cannot seem to find the answers too.
1) Is the Clear ETS the only treatment I need or do I need to apply anything else before using it?
2) During installation planned for the next 2 weeks should I cost the bottom and top of each log where they sit on top of each other for extra protection?
Will definitely take the advice to screw and treat all floor and ceiling boards too.
Many thanks, Mark
Hi Peter. Had a log cabin for a year. Used a high quality water based paint, two coats. Recently we have had water penetration to all corners. Any suggestions to help with that? I assume you cannot apply your finish to an existing painted surface.
Regards,
Paul
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Hi Paul,
The reason your cabin is leaking at the corners is because the treatment you’ve used hasn’t sealed the end grain. I suspect its primary weatherproofing ingredient is a resin, and resin is a very poor end grain sealer. This is because it cures hard and when the end grain expands during more humid periods of the year a gap forms between the resin and the cell walls allowing rainwater to pass by. You don’t get this problem with wax or oil because they don’t cure, instead remaining malleable and as each cell wall expands so does the wax or oil, maintaining the seal. You can definitely apply our Clear ETS to an existing painted surface. The solvent will reactivate the ingredients of your existing paint allowing the wax and oil ingredients to penetrate the surface cells of the cabin logs. -
Hi Peter
I’ve just seen your advise online and i’m wondering if you would be able to give us some advice please? My summer house/log cabin is moving (big gaps & toung & groove opening up) I’m absolutely devastated as it keeps getting worse, I’ve been looking online for advice and seeyour post any advice would be great appreciated, Happy to send pictures.
Yasmin
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Hi Yasmin,
Can you email me some photos to info@timmersol.co.uk and I’ll take a look. Take photos of the exterior and interior of the entire wall(s) that are problematic. I need to see the entire wall to identify any issues that may be causing the gapping.Pete
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Hi there.
I have the contraction problem by the looks of it. Also though I noticed the front of the cabin has moved slightly off centre. So the top of the cabin is maybe a couple of inches further to one side than the base. It’s got to the point where one of the double doors doesn’t close unless I hammer it back in so for now I just keep that door bolt locked. Also now yesterday I noticed two panels have actually come away from that door frame near the base.
Is there anything I can do or is this terminal?
I think the cabin is only a few years old and I think the sellers knew about this as I’ve noticed some metal supports screwed into the front corners where it warped and the walls have come away from them.
Thanks for you time.
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Hi Paul,
I’ve sent you an email, if it’s not in your inbox please check your spam folder.Cheers
Hi Peter,
I am considering a log cabin and wound be interested in your advice as to the best time of year to build and how to treat the individual planks prior to construction.
Thank you!
Vicky
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Hi Vicky,
The best time to build a log cabin is early to mid Spring and mid to late Autumn. This is when relative humidity levels are still pretty high so timber has a moisture content of around 15% to 18%. This is perfect for the application of a high performance log cabin treatment like ours. Micro porous treatments aren’t suitable for a log cabin as they allow moisture to flow freely into, or out of the timber which is the biggest cause of log cabin issues. Treat each individual component on all sides with 3 coats of our ETS. Alternatively treat the cabin in situ once built. Again, apply 3 coats of our ETS to both the exterior and interior of the cabin. If you can treat the underside of the floorboards, and the topside of the roofboards this will help with expansion, but if you cant it wont cause too much of an issue as long as you screw the boards down instead of nailing. Apply our ETS liberally to all end grain. This is where 80% of moisture exchange takes place within timber, and it’s also the most common area of a log cabin to leak. Resin only treatments aren’t suitable for end grain protection, you need an ingredient that stays maliable such as wax or oil. Solvent based products also have an advantage here as each coat reactivates the ingredients of the previous coat pushing it further into the end grain. Water based don’t have this ability, the first coat will penetrate the end grain but subsequent coats buld on the surface of each previous coat. Hope that helps
HI,
I purchased a log cabin back in February and after building it I used 3 coats of wood preserver by ever build I then gave it 3 coats of cuprinol garden shades and then 2 coats of protek eco shield. After a few days rain I started getting water coming in at all corners so I applied osmo endgrain wax ,that sorted it tracking through end grain but was still coming in I then sealed with silicon all the lengths of all corners but still came in so I decided to used a plastic capping on the corners its not screwed on its just held as it is slightly smaller and this stopped all water in corners.but now warm weather is here the wood is shrinking fast I’m getting gaps along lengths of wood in the middle and cracks appearing. My question is can I use this timmersol ets on the inside to penetrant the wood to gain it to grow as it were as it is painted on out side or am I going to have to sand it back to bare wood .just need some help .Stuart.
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Hi Stuart,
I’ve emailed you. It’s a shame that you’ve applied 3 big name treatments and you’re having major problems. I’ll help you sort this out.Regards,
Pete
Hello we moved into a property in October last year we inherited the summerhouse/shed as the owner did not want to move it – the shed was ok when we moved in but over the last few months it has all come apart none of us are ok with DIY and are worried a may be a lost cause any help would be grateful many thanks
Pete.
Do I protect with ETS before or after painting and would you recomend a particular make of coating paint
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Hi Ray,
Any water based paint will be ok, the main determinant is finding the perfect colour. Always apply first then overcoat with ETS. If you apply it on top of ETS it will get repelled.
Hope that helps.
Pete
Hi, Pete, I hope all is well. Just about to receive delivery of a Kimbrey cabin and I am looking to get the timing right, to allow pre-erection treatments and order ETS. Please would it be possible to share the email guidance before I order?
Many thanks in advance.
Best Regards
Steve
Dear Pete,
I have been looking for information regarding my log cabin and came across yourself commenting and giving advice. I’d really appreciate your views of at all possible.
I don’t have an issue with gapping or cracking but I do have water tracking up the roof boards on the right side of the cabin which is visible from the inside. It seems to track up some of the t&g board joints but not all. My initial thought was that the wind is blowing the rain up underneath the shingles so last year I sealed this using flashband to the overhang of the shingles to behind the fascia. I’m not a lover of flashband but had to try and sort this. I have a near 200mm overhang to the shingle edge back to the log wall side. Do you think water could track up hill and show on the inside or do you think its a problem with the shingles expanding and contracting and opening up? This year I’ve noticed I have other ingress and it’s frustrating me as I don’t want anything to rot. I am even thinking of removing the shingles this summer and replacing them with EPDM rubber sheeting, which would fit like felt, wrapping underneath the eaves. I’ve noticed, reading your posts that I should have treated/stabilised the interior too, which I will now do once I’ve sorted this issue. I don’t have photos to hand but could make them available. Your views would be highly welcomed.
With kind regards
Lee Taylor
Sent from Outlook for Android
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Hi Lee,
Issues with the roof are very difficult to pin point and as a result can be very frustrating. You have to go through a process of elimination to find the root cause. The things you need to consider: is it condensation from inside the cabin? it can be very bad this time of year in the absence of a heating source. I’ve seen it literally dripping off the roof. Did you apply a good quality underfelt with a minimum 150mm overlap before installing the shingles? Wind will definitely force rain under the shingles and it may track down the t&g of the roof boards in a completely different place to where it’s ingressing. An underflt must be installed before the shingles are. Have the roof boards expanded and caused the shingles and underfelt to stretch around the roof nails? Again possible ingress points for driving rain. If all of these have been done then you could use felt overlap adhesive and run a bead under the shingles at the sides of the cabin and under each flap of the shingle to prevent driving rain from ingressing. Hard work I Know but worth it if it keeps the rain out. I love EPDM. There is no better roof covering for a log cabin to keep rainwater out, but a shingled roof is aesthetically pleasing to the eye and there’s no reason why a shingled roof can’t be an affective barrier against the rain. Hope this helps. Pete-
Thank you so much for your reply Peter, I really appreciate it. I kinds dismissed condensation as it is inly one side of my cabin. There is a polythene membrane under the shingles which wraps under toward the eaves. There is a good overhang of 200mm, 220mm including the shingle overhang and the end grain of the roof boards are all sealed. I feel I’ve sealed everywhere including the drip edge of the shingles. My feeling now points towards your theory in a previous thread…….the expansion and contraction of the shingles thus opening up nail holes and joints. Again, this is only in certain parts. It is a shame as I do like the shingles but I think when the weather changes for the better, I’ll be fitting the EPDM after all you only see the shingles from upstairs in the house. Would you recommend a certain thickness for the EPDM. I’ve read 1.2mm and 1.5mm.
Thanks for you interest and thoughts, I really appreciate it.
Kindest regards
Lee-
Hi Lee,
It sounds like you’ve got everything covered, unfotunately even a thorough inspection can be inconclusive. By the sound of it you’ve got a pent cabin if the shingles can only be seen from and upstairs window, so it won’t ruin the aesthetics of the cabin if an EPDM roof is installed. I would recommend 1.5mm as it goes down much smoother without any wrinkles (which are a pain to smooth out). Pete-
Thanks Pete, I really appreciate your views and thoughts.
Kindest of regards
Lee
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Hi, my cabin has been up about 3 years. We have had movement in changing seasons but no gaps. We live on top of a hill and very exposed, if raining and high winds it drives the rain between the boards even though you can not see gaps 🙁
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Hi Lesly,
Send me a couple of pictures (try and get as much of the cabin wall in the photo as possible) and I’ll take a look for you.Pete
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Hi Peter,
Did you receive the pictures I sent? just wondered if you had any idea of how I can stop the leaks ?
Lesly-
Hi Lesly,
Unfortunately I didn’t. I’ll send you a quick email now and you can resend the photos via reply to my email. Pete
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Hi,
I recently purchased a log cabin from Dunster House and having a couple problems with logs moving up on one wall (as little as 2 months after I painted it). I painted it with three coats of Sadolin supadec inside and out but they tell me I should have used further protection and suggest my choice of paint is the issue. They advised using a clear solution over the top of what I have painted but offer very little info on their clear products. As such I found your site and it looks like the clear timmersol ETS is a good option to overcoat and give it added protection.
Please could you advise if the timmersol ETS is suitable in my instance? Also, assuming it is best to wait to spring to do this now as the temps are likely too cold to apply but if you have any advice on that I would very much appreciate it. As far as I can tell from the above comments, the main cause of expansion and contraction is moisture getting in the end grains so perhaps it is worth me using timmersol on the end grains now (a couple quick coats) and then covering the whole thing twice in the spring.
Hoping you can help. Many thanks,
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Hi David,
Could you email a couple of photos of the offending logs to info@timmersol.co.uk so I can visualise the problem. I’ll definitely be able to help you sort the problem.
Pete
Hi Pete,
I built my log cabin last November. Coated the external timber with 2 coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS plus then 2 coats of Sikkens filter 7. Internal walls coated with 2 coats Barrettine wood preserver.
After the recent rain. I have found water ingress from 1 corner 3 logs up from the ground. Believe it to be the end grain and thinking of capping all corners with Dry verge using poly top nails with channels cut to allow for expansion or using Timersol ETS.
Do you know if ETS can be painted over Sikkens filter 7?
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Hi Bruce,
it is very likely the end grain. Similar to others who have contacted me, Sikkens Cetol has only one weatherproofing ingredient which is an Alkyd resin. Unfortunately resin isn’t great at sealing the end grain. You need a non curing ingredient such as wax to seal end grain successfully. Our ETS will seal the end grain due to its high wax and oil content and because it’s solvent based it can be applied over both Sikkens products and penetrate the timber.
Hi Pete,
I’ve assembled a 44mm log cabin with interlocking corners a couple of months ago, and treated with 2 coats of wood preserver followed by 2 coats of Protek Royal Exterior stain.
Unfortunately I’m now seeing signs of water ingress in a couple of the corners, on the side that is most exposed to wind/rain. Reading through the comments/replies here (which are very helpful by the way!), I’m guessing it’s likely that the treatment is simply ineffective on the endgrain of the logs.
I was thinking of overcoating (possibly the whole cabin) with ETS Clear, will this solve the problem? Will it provide enough protection with say 2 or 3 coats on the endgrain or should I use an additional specific end grain sealant?
Many thanks
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Hi Sam,
I suspect it’s leaking due to rainwater penetration the end grain. This is why we include 3 waterproofing ingredients in our ETS which provides a triple barrier system, and we don’t just rely on resin. Could you email me a photo or two to info@timmersol.co.uk so I can confirm the cause and help you sort the leaking out?Kind regards,
Pete
Hi Pete
We built a cabin this summer – it has 44mm logs fixed to corner posts and cover boards fitted around these rather than interlocking logs. The cabin was 2x treated with Barrettine and then undercoated and 2x with weathershield exterior satin. We have been encountering water ingress at the two back corners. We have silicone sealed everywhere we can think where water may get in but after recent heavy rain, it’s come in again. It’s not rising from underneath – there’s plentiful ventilation and floor remains dry. Would you have any advice please? Thank you
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Hello Justine, The most common cause of leaking in the corners is due to moisture penetration of the end grain. Unfortunately the treatments you’ve mentioned only contain one weatherproofing ingredient which is resin. It’s cheap and easy to add during manufacturing, however once it cures it’s not flexible enough to protect the end grain from water ingress like the wax and oil contents of our Exterior Timber Stabiliser would. To sort your problem apply a wax based end grain sealer (don’t use an end grain preserver, the two products are completely different).
Pete
Hi Pete,
Thought I’d post this here as maybe be useful for others who make the same mistake!? Me again and sorry for so many emails, I’m sure you guys are rushed off your feet, just the weather has been hectic and I’ve been eagerly trying to protect my new log cabin as best as I can as quickly as I can! The good news is I finally managed to get the first exterior coat of Timmersol applied this morning, but the bad news is when going back to check my documentation I realised I was supposed to apply a wood preserver to the cabin first! With this in mind what do you think is the best next course of action? Have you had any customers have this happen before? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again Pete, really appreciate all the help so far!
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Hi Lance,
The easiest way around this problem is to apply a solvent based clear wood preserver over the top of the Timmersol ETS. Barrettine premier wood preserver is ideal for this. The solvent will allow the ingredients of the preserver to pass through the resin film of our ETS and penetrate the timber.Best reagrds, Pete
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Excellent Pete, thank you! After applying the solvent based clear wood preserver – would I just continue with the rest of the Timmersol applications over the top? Would that same wood preserver be good as the first coat for the interior too as not done that yet?
Thanks agin,
Lance
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Hi Lance,
yes as you say, apply the 2 additional coats after applying the preserver on the outside and use it as the base coat on the interior. It’s all down to the solvent, it doesn’t work like this with water based treatments, the solvent is such a high performance addition to any exterior grade treatment.Regards,
Pete
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Hi there – this question has probably been answered already, but can Timmersol ETS be overpainted with readily available high street coatings (such as Ronseal or Sadolin) for a decorative coloured finish ?
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Hi George,
You cannot overpaint ETS with any water based wood treatment. ETS is designed to repel moisture in all its forms so if a water based treatment is applied over the top of it then it will just get repelled. What you can do is apply a high street paint first as a colour coat, then apply 2 coats of ETS over the top. The solvent in our ETS will reactivate the ingredients in the paint allowing the wax and oil ingredients of ETS to penetrate the timber, whilst the resin content will provide a protective film over the top.Kind rergards,
Pete
Hello Peter, I would also very much like the email about whether or not to treat my cabin before I erect it. The logs have been laying in my garden for a month, covered in a tarp, but in sweltering heat. It is a 4m x 4m 44mm cabin. It is not new – I dismantled it from another garden and fetched it home. I noticed whilst dismantling it, it had the dreaded gaps between the door and window with those small logs contracting. Should I be coating the logs with Timmersol ETS whilst they are so contracted?
Kind regards
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Hi Rick,
given the fact that your log cabin isn’t new, and you know that the logs have already contracted to the point they’re now problematic, there is no reason why you shouldn’t erect the cabin now and give it a coat or two of preservative, whilst waiting for current atmospheric moisture levels (relative humidity) to increase again. A good visual indicator is when the car windscreens are all covered in moisture every morning. I would say mid to end of October would then be a good time to treat the cabin in situ with our ETS (both the interior and exterior), locking in that moisture. Of course, it is always better if you can treat the cabin prior to erecting because you extend the barrier to all the parts that aren’t coated once installed, so if you do have the time and room then treat the cabin mid to end of October and erect thereafter.Kind regards,
Pete
Pete is a star and has provided me with prompt and thorough advice about gaps that have appeared in my cabin. I haven’t carried out his suggested remedies yet but am confident that he knows what’s what! Many thanks Pete.
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Thanks for the positive feedback George, I’m sure you’ll have your cabin back to its former glory pretty soon 🙂
Pete
Hi, I found your contact information after googling to try and find a resolution to my problem.
My log cabin seems to be shifting lots! We have tried all sorts of different measures to stop this including bracketing it, knocking it back into place, using a flexible type silicon to seal the holes but nothing seems to be working. Please see the pictures attached and any information or help you may have would be greatly appreciated!
My log cabin has contracted in the exceptionally hot weather this week. There is gap all the way round – one plank below the roof. Gap at corner joints. How do I get to fix this. Looks too big a job to do on my own/ don’t have the strength to do it.
Hello, I’ve been reading the comments with great interest. I bought a log cabin last year and the company I bought it from were also responsible for painting it. I only realised afterwards that they didn’t put any under treatment on, they just did two coats of Cuprinol. On the inside, which I was responsible for, I’ve used a wood preserver and then Cuprinol. When I contacted the company about the lack of protection for the cabin, they said that’s all they ever do and they’ve never had any complaints from customers. They said I would see some shrinkage and it would need touching up after a year, but that that was normal.
There is some shrinkage all the way around, but worse than that my cabin is now bowing in one corner. There doesn’t seem to be anything visible yet inside, but it’s becoming really obvious on the outside. I’ve contacted the company and sent photos. The first time they came back to me and said they were contacting the manufacturer. I’ve since chased them up twice, but getting no response.
Any ideas what might cause the bowing – and what can be done about it? Thanks!
Hi Pete,
I am taking receipt of my log cabin today and would be grateful for a copy of the email that you sent other regarding whether to treat the logs before construction etc. Also we ideally want to clad the outside with a wooden feather board to better match our main property. If we do this would it cause issue with expansion/contraction of the main walls/any suggestions please? Many thanks Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
Could you send me your email address to info@timmersol.co.uk. I’ve tried sending an email but it bouced back saying the email address you’ve provided doesn’t exist.
Hi.
I have read these posts with interest. I have just purchased a log cabin and I am yet to build it as there have been some issues with the delivery and quality of some of the logs (warping). This has meant that the parts have been left on my drive (covered by tarpaulin) for over a month while I wrangle with the company for replacements.
I recently started the build (instructions say to screw fix the starter and first layer). Unfortunately the ‘U’ warping on some logs means the screws are torn out when the opposite end is screwed down. I have paused the build and am at a loss of what to do next… I am nervous about continuing with a log cabin build due to the documented potential issues, I am not sure whether to ignore the build instructions and trust the logs will flatten out, I am concerned about the logs being left outside for over a month – advice on this would be appreciated. Also, if I continue the build how should I proceed with treatment ? Treat each log before building – or can I build section (say 6 logs high) and then treat inside and out ? Also – do the floor and roof boards need treating both sides ? Thanks for an excellent blog post
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Hi Alan,
Warping is one of many movement issues associated with moisture egress and ingress, but it isn’t a major issue. It is perfectly ok to build the cabin as the logs will ‘season’. Apply the treatment once the cabin is built. As our Exterior Timber Stabiliser is semi porous it will allow the logs to breathe which in turn will gradually allow the logs to return to their normal shape.
Hello,
Please can I have a copy of the email response to the Mimbrey cabin email? I’ve purchased a Mendip from Forest Garden and having it installed. Advice on the website is 30L of product and to pain on after the build has taken place. Would really appreciate your advice. Many Thanks
Hello Pete
Would it be possible to have a copy of your email response re whether to paint the individual parts with ETS before installation or when installed?
Many thanks
David
Hi, also in the Kimbrey cabin club – would really appreciate the email guidance before deciding what to order – many thanks
Chris
Hi, I have treated the cabin but not been as careful around the window and door glass as I should have been and have dried ETS on the glass. I have tried white spirit but very slow; is there a solvent that would remove dried ETS from the glass better than whit spirit. Thanks John
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Hi John,
Apply the white spirit with a rag to lubricate the glass then remove the dried Timmersol with a window scraper such as this one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-window-scraper-3/56292Pete
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Hi Pete, good advice as usual. Softening the EDS with white spirit and then using the glass scrapper is working a treat. It has saved me hours of work; I have also enlisted my wife’s help and that has given me the time to send this reply. Thanks John
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Having followed all Peter’s advice over the last few months I can also add another advantage to treating the timbers before assembly. My brushing skills are second to many and ETS is not a cheap product, but if you have the space then the amount of ETS then ends up where it is best needed can not be improved on when treating the timbers laying horizontally and on top of each other. They need to dry of course but that is where space comes in. We looked forward to watching the sun set with a glass or two sitting outside the cabin.
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Hi Peter,
We got a log cabin built a few weeks ago and got pvc cladding on the outside of the cabin as we were advised no maintenance and that the cladding was the best way to protect the wood. We were advised to just use ronseal interior varnish diamond hard protection for inside walls.
However, there is a lot of cracking on the interior walls and some are quite long. Is this normal or something to be concerned about?
After reading the comments and your replies I am concerned issues may arise as we only used ronseal on interior walls/ ceiling.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you
Paul
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Hi Paul,
Ronseal Interior Diamond Hard Varnish is completely unsuitable for the inside of a log cabin. A log cabin is classed as an outbuilding and all outbuildings require exterior grade treatments applied to their interior. Interior grade treatments are only suitable for houses, etc that have heating, cavity walls, etc. This is because the interior of an outbuilding is exposed to far greater concentrations of atmospheric moisture than the interior of a house and the movement of timber will be much more severe. A varnish in particular is a combination of resin and oil boiled together. It has little elasticity so when the timber expands beyond the elasticity point of the varnish it will crack allowing the free passage of atmospheric moisture. I would either apply a varnish/ paint stripper to the interior, or use a heat gun and scraper to completely remove the varnish. Either way you have some work to do i’m afraid. With regard to the UPVC cladding, I suspect it may cause you problems in the warmer months when relative humidity levels are lower and the logs contract. It’s the weight of the roof bearing down on the logs which prevent gaps from appearing between the logs. Anything that prevents this weight from transferring all the way through the logs will result in gapping. My advice would be to remove it. Pete-
Hi Peter, thank you very much for your response. Just to confirm the cabin we have does have cavity walls/ insulation and a heating (electric heater used for colder weather). Does that make any difference in relation to the varnish or will we still have to strip it?
Thanks again your advice is much appreciated-
Hi Paul,
unfortunately even with the cavity walls and the electric heater an interior varnish isn’t suitable for the inside of a log cabin. Due to the design of a log cabin (free floating walls, etc) the movement in the logs is too much for an interior varnish to cope with. The varnish relies on curing to a solid finish sitting on top of the timber’s surface (most modern resin finishes rely on the same process too). Due to the inelasticity of varnish as the timber expands and contracts the varnish will continually develop micro tears allowing moisture ingress and egress at too fast a rate. Moisture penetrates through these micro tears travelling through the timber’s cells underneath the varnish making the varnish totally ineffective. This is why our Timmersol ETS contains a mixture of wax and oils which never cure so their elasticity is excellent, and provide a much greater degree of moisture repellency, plus a blend of resins provide much the same protection as varnish except because of the protection from the penetrating wax and oil, the movement of the timber is much less, preventing the resins from micro tearing. I helped out a guy a few years ago who became a good customer of ours. He was in exactly the same position as yourself except that he also had mould under the surface of his varnish and it was spreading fast. I called Ronseal on his behalf and they very strongly stipulated that they don’t recommend Diamond Hard Varnish for log cabins due to their classification as an outbuilding, (even though it isn’t stipulated anywhere in their documentation). Hope that helps? Apologies for the ‘War & Peace’ reply but I’m conscious these comments will help other people in a similar situation to yourself 🙂Pete
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Thank you very much for the information it is much appreciated.
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Hi Pete
I have the same question as Dick Anderson and Alan Hutton i.e
I am awaiting a delivery date for a Forest Garden Kimbrey 44mm Log Cabin (5.2 x 4.2 m). Would it be best to treat the timber before it is erected as the cabin; if it would be best would you give the individual timbers 1 or 2 coats of ETS before the final erection and then the final coat(s) of ETS after erection? Finally, we have gone for clear ETS, can this be overpainted in the future should we want a colour change .
In addition, I have a few more questions; I would like to spray (using a car paint spray gun) your ETS onto the timber components, how many litres should I order to coat 3 on the outside and 2 coats on the inside?
Could you please also forward to me your email reply?
Thanks!
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Hi Paul,
We built a residential lodge and have been living in it for 18 months. All the wood was treated as we built it. The external wall ( ots double walled) has been treated again and is fine. The internal walls have not been treated again since being built. This winter we not only have a logburner but also storage radiators which has kept the lodge warm. Unfortunately it has also meant we now have gaps between the logs around areas that are warmest.My question is will this settle in the coming months as the heaters are turned off. Should I treat the internal walls now or wait until they settle. Will treating them cause the gaps to close?
Any advice much appreciated.
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Hi Mark,
Obviously the outer walls are preventing the logs of the inner wall from dropping down and closing the gaps. Once the heaters are turned off it will give both the outer and inner walls a chance to reach their moisture equilibrium point in line with relative humidity levels, so the gaps should close up. This can take several months to accomplish. To speed the process up I would recommend using a humidifier inside the cabin whilst the heating is still on, this will allow the logs to absorb that moisture and expand. Once the gaps have closed I would definitely treat the interior with our Exterior Timber Stabiliser.
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Hi Pete. I am also waiting on delivery of a Forest Garden Kimbrey. Could you please send me the same advise you gave to Alan.
Thank you.
Hi Pete, I am awaiting a delivery date for a Forest Garden Kimbrey 44mm Log Cabin (5.2 x 4.2 m).
A recent question 17th Aug 2021 from a John Rintoul where he asked – “would it be best to treat the timber before it is erected as the cabin; if it would be best would you give the individual timbers 1 or 2 coats of ETS before the final erection and then the final coat(s) of ETS after erection. Finally we have gone for clear ETS, can this be overpainted in the future should we want a colour change . Many useful comments and replies here. John”
Can you please share your wisdom in your email reply with me too?
In addition I have a few more questions; I would like to spray (using a car paint spray gun) your ETS onto the timber components, how many litres should I order to coat 3 on the outside and 2 coats on the inside?
On a separate question, I have cedar cladding on parts of my house, have been using Rystic timbarcare (a Canadian solvent based cedar finish) Is your ETS a better product for my cedar ? Thanks. Alan
Hi Peter, We have recently purchased a log cabin and treated the timber with a preservative against rot etc. Firstly when is the best time of year to erect a new cabin and treat with ETS and would it be best to treat the timber before it is erected as the cabin; if it would be best would you give the individual timbers 1 or 2 coats of ETS before the final erection and then the final coat(s) of ETS after erection. Finally we have gone for clear ETS, can this be overpainted in the future should we want a colour change . Many useful comments and replies here. John
My wife had a log cabin installed last October. Since April, gaps have started to appear between the logs, and one of the front doors has warped towards the top.
After reading the posts on your blog, along with your replies, I am guessing that these problems are due to ineffective weather proofing. The cabin is treated on the outside only with Cuprinol. Any further advice would be much appreciated.
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Hi Nigel,
Yes gapping is always a result of ineffective weatherproofing but it’s very easy to do with such a variety of treatments on the market. Our Timmersol ETS is designed specifically for buildings with a free floating wall design such as log cabins. It’s unique as it contains 3 weatherproofing ingredients and I don’t believe there is another treatment on the market that contains this variety of ingedients. You’ve also made a very common error in just treatming the exterior of the cabin. The interior should always be treated as it’s not just rain water you’re protecting against. The real cause of timber movement is atmospheric moisture known as relative humidity and this affects the inside of the cabin just as much as the outside. Obviously my first piece of advice is to treat the interior and exterior of your cabin with our Exterior Timber Stabiliser, that is the most sound piece of advice I can give to anyone when purchasing a log cabin. Saves a lot of heartache in the future. But first we need to sort out the gapping on your cabin. I’m assuming it’s the front of your cabin that’s gapping? Most people send me a photo just of the gaps but I can’t tell anything from those photos so can you email me a photo of the entire front of the cabin for both the outside and inside. I need to see what’s preventing the logs from settling. Email address is sales@timmersol.co.uk Pete
I have received my new log cabin but can’t assemble it until Sep should I treat the wood with Timmersol and repack it or leave it untreated in the delivery packaging until it’s built. Thanks for any help
Hi Pete, Thank you for your helpful advice. I am impressed with Timmersol.
I will treating the outside of our log cabin with 2 coats initially and every 3 years with Timmersol . Also I applied 2 coats to the window and doors prior to assembly. I am a bit concerned about treating my roof boards as I have 66 to do and it is difficult to find room to lay them all out especially with so much bad weather now. So it is a nightmare to treat them twice.
1/ I am asking you that if you think it will suffice to treat the roof boards with just a one off coat of Timmersol on the ceiling side and later the felt tiled roof side under 50mm of insulation?
2/ Also is one off coat to the inside of the cabin ok, as the odour will be bad to repeat every 3 years?
Kind regards,
John.
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Hi John,
I’m glad you’re pleased with the product. It will be ok to treat the roof boards once especially on the topside of the boards, the insulation will help slow the rate of moisture ingress down. With regard to treating the inside of the cabin you can get away with treating it every 4 to 5 years as the rate of degredation won’t be as harsh as the treatment on the exterior of the cabin.Kind regards,
Pete
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Hello,Pete ,this summer past we had a quality log cabin built.We now have minor issues with water ingress at two corners.The dampness is not coming from the roof but appears about the third log down perhaps tracking along the joints. The joints are sealed on the vertical and the exterior was primed and painted with two coats of Demideck paint .Any thoughts?
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Hi Allan, Leaking at the corners is usually due to water ingress via the end grain. Single ingredient treatments are just not able to cope with the movement on a log cabin due to its free floating walls, and this is none so more apparant than with the end grain of the logs. There is more movement from the end grain than anywhere else on a length of timber, as this is where the timber loses, or gains up to 90% of it’s moisture content. Resin alone is just not pliable enough to cope with the movement of the end grain, and micro cracks soon appear allowing water ingress. The wax content of our Exterior Timber Stabiliser is very important for plugging the end grain of timber as it remains soft and malleable, expanding and contracting along with the movement of the timber. You need to look for an end grain sealer, preferably one containing wax, and apply it liberally. If you want to send me a couple of photos to sales@timmersol.co.uk I’ll confirm if it is an end grain issue or not.
Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi Pete,
I have purchased Timmersol and in the process of applying it. I would like to know if I should apply silicone sealant to the exterior horizontal joints of the the logs after building and treatment? My logs are single tongue and grooved, 34 mm.
Kind regards,
John.
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Hi John,
I’m assuming you’re talking about where the joints overlap in each corner? If so then there is no need to apply silicone to the horizontal edges of these joints. Leaking will only occur through the end grain of each log and usually manifests on the inside of the cabin in the corners. people naturally assume it’s the actual joint that is the problem, but it’s the end grain. As you’re applying our Timmersol ETS the wax content will plug the cells of the end grain ensuring they’re watertight.Kind regards,
Pete
I have been having this problem now for a couple of months, as the weather has started to get warmer. We put our cabin up in September of last year and all was fine until the middle of March when I started to notice 1 or 2 gaps appearing. If there is any advice I could get it would be much appreciated
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Hi Justin,
Can you send me some photos please to sales@timmersol.co.uk
I would need to see photos of the entire side of the cabin that is gapping (both exterior and interior photos), not close ups of the gaps. I need to try and ascertain what is preventing the weight of the roof from bearing down on the logs to prevent them from gapping.Pete
Hi – I’ve been reading this thread with interest. I have inherited a substantial garden office, and have been using it for work since January. In the last week or so I have noticed gaps appearing between the timbers placed between the windows. I’m assuming this is down to the warmer dryer weather that we’ve had recently.
The exterior has been neglected and I am planning on rectifying that asap – so I would be grateful for any advice on resolving both of these issues, as I have invested a lot of money in the cabin since moving.
Thanks
Matt
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Hi Matt,
I’m assuming you’re talking about the shorter log lengths between the windows. If you’re only getting gapping between these shorter lengths and not between the longer lengths on that side then unfortunately the treatment you have used is underperforming. Relative humidity levels have been unusually low for this time of year and that has caused the contraction in your logs. about 85% to 90% of core moisture is lost from the logs longitudely egressing via the end grain, and only a small percentage is lost via the cells on the timber’s surface. The shorter the log the faster its core will lose moisture resulting in much faster contraction than a longer log. Most people treat their cabin with protection from rain in mind, but rainwater only causes superficial movement (unless it’s prolonged rainfall), the real enemy of timber movement is atmospheric humidity.For more information on how relative humidity affects timber click here. The correct treatment will stabilise this contraction resulting in a much slower loss of moisture allowing the longer logs to keep pace. Unfortunately you now only have one of two options, replace the logs and treat the entire cabin inside and out with our Timmersol Exterior Timber Stabiliser, or wait until relative humidity levels increase, and for the gaps to close back up, then treat the cabin, again inside and out with our Exterior Timber Stabiliser.
Hello, wondering if you can advise. I’ve had my log cabin built for 1 month now and over the last few days there has been water droplets appear all over the ceiling and not in 1 particular place. There is a constant trickle of water which has started to appear. The roof felt has already had to be replaced due to the first lot being of very poor quality so now I have felt shingles which have been fab until I’ve noticed the droplets. I’ve contacted the company who I bought it from and awaiting a response from the supplier. Any advice?
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Hi Natalie, roofs are very tricky and an inspection is always needed to verify the root cause. The fact that the droplets aren’t in one particular place suggests it could be condensation rather than a leak. Do you have a heat source in there? if not it may be the solution. It could also be that the roof boards have expanded and stretched the shingles which has created water ingress points around the felt nails. There are many different scenarios which can lead to a leaking roof which requires an inspection by a competent tradesperson. Hopefully your supplier will send someone out soon.
Hi Peter
with all the logs expanding and contracting wouldn’t it be better to glue and screw the logs together so they act as one, so the whole wall expands contract as a whole rather than individual logs.
I know you’re probably have been ask this before .
many thanks
Paul
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Hi Paul,
You could glue and screw the logs together but it would take an awful lot of glue and screws. In addition the logs usually range in size from 100mm to 130mm in depth so you would need some pretty substantial screws, but if you could meet all these needs then it would help. However, the very best way to prevent issues is to apply a good quality treatment such as our Exterior Timber Stabiliser. Cheaper treatments just don’t work despite their claims, and this includes some major high street brands. In particular, I’m not a fan of film finishes or high build finishes due to the way their coats bond together: any excessive movement of the timber will cause them to crack and peel and then you have to strip the entire coat off before re-coating. A good penetrating finish has stood the test of time and is definitely the way forward.-
Hi
Thanks for getting back to me.
you can get wood glue in 5l can’s and 200mm long timber screws, so no problem.
So this means i can fix furniture or shelves and clip direct the cable or fix mini trunking to the walls with no risk of it causing an issue restricting the expansion .
I will still be using a good quality wood preserver.
Many Thanks
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HI
I’ve looking at getting a log cabin but reading all the issues some people have been having it’s putting me off.
Many year back we had a static caravan and moisture was an issue with them over the winter months and what we used to do was to run a dehumidifier on a timer.
Do you thin this would help keep the moisture content down in the timbers and help prevent movement ?
Many thanks
Paul
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Hi Paul,
sorry for the delayed response, the current situation makes for a very heavy workload. Don’t be put off about buying a log cabin, they’re very economical in comparison to building a brick building and if the right treatment is applied both externally and internally, such as our Timmersol ETS Double Protectant, the issues in this blog post can almost certainly be avoided. A dehumidifier run in the winter will help prevent excess damp, which in turn will help prevent mould and mildew. As long as the roof boards have been screwed down to the rafters during the build then timber expansion shouldn’t be a problem, and it’s very rare for the floor to cause many problems too. The main issue is with contraction during the warmer months and that is where most of the issues in the blog post have occurred. The application of Timmersol ETS Double Protectant would most certainly have prevented 99% of the issues shown on the blog. Hope that helps?
Hi
We have a log cabin that hss been up over 4 years now with the boards constantly moving whatever the season. In summer very bad gaps appear at the front so the roof has to be knocked down constantly. The four wood internal storm breakers are constantly coming away from the walls even though screwed in tight. Now the ceiling rafters are splitting apart. After 4 years we would have expected it to have stopped doing this. It is painted outside with a branded shed paint. What do you advise?
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Hi Sandra,
Apologies for the delayed response, current conditions have been keeping me very busy. Firstly the boards of a log cabin, or any timber, will constantly move throughout the seasons in line with relative humidity levels but there are things you can do to stabilise that movement. I think the branded shed paint you’ve used, like many on the market, is not giving your log cabin the protection it needs. A shed paint is definitely not suitable for a log cabin due to the very different ways they are constructed, despite the manufacturer stating their paint is suitable for a log cabin. With regard to the storm braces, they should be secured to the cabin via a nut and bolt and the nut should only be hand tightened, their only purpose is to prevent the roof from blowing off in a hurricane, if they’re screwed to the cabin or over-tightened they will bow away from the walls as the logs contract. This may be why you have to knock the roof down in the summer as they preventing it from smoothly bearing down on the logs? Apart from relieving the tension on the storm braces my advice would be to treat both the inside and outside of the cabin with a high quality timber stabiliser meant specifically for log cabins such as our ETS Double Protectant.
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Hi Lee,
Apologies for the delayed response, things have been manic here. You’re on the right track, as the logs expand and contract the weight of the roof keeps them all together. If the logs contract too much then the log above the doors and windows can end up resting directly on top of the doors and windows and they end up supporting the weight of the roof. As the logs contract further there is no weight bearing down on them to stop them gapping. There are other things that can cause gapping such as electrical trunking bridging the logs, etc but the log resting on the doors and windows is by far the most common reason. This problem can be overcome by using a quality weather proofing treatment specifically designed for log cabins such as our Timmersol ETS Double Protectant.
Hi,
We have had a log cabin installed and we are finding that the roof boards are contracting so much that on about 6 boards in different places the tongue has come out of the groove and we can see the underneath of the roofing felt, is this a normal ?
Thanks, Graham
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Hi Graham,
I would assume that the roof boards have been nailed rather than screwed to the rafters? This is a common problem when the roof boards have been nailed. My advice would be to strip the felt off the roof and double screw each board where it intersects a rafter using a 60mm deck screw, obviously you’ll need to lift some of the boards to realign the tongue back into the grooves of the boards, and you’ll need to make an assessment before removing the felt to ensure this can be done, otherwise you may have to approach the cabin manufacturer for some replacement boards. Whilst the roofing felt is off I would apply a coat of our Timmersol Clear to the boards before putting new felt back on the roof. Also apply the Clear to the underside of the roof boards inside the cabin to stabilise them. This will ensure the movement of each board is stabilised throughout the seasons. Hope this helps, Pete
Hi there .
Having spent a small fortune I’ve had my log cabin 6 months and had some nice weather recently , since this I’ve got loads of gaps everywhere. Some of them have bevelled and are out of place causing more of the cabin to become out of place . It looks awful .
The Smaller slates at the front beside the windows look like it’s wonky as they are tilting . Some gaps are and inch wide .
Can you please advise
Thank you In anticipation
Jo
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Hi Jo,
Can you send me some photos to sales@timmersol.co.uk? In particular a full frontal photo of the outside of the cabin and then the same for the front of the cabin from the inside. I know it may be harder to get one of the inside but try and include as much as you can.Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi,I’m in the same situation unfortunately. The t&g roof panels warped, and ripped the felt over the winter. Ive had to re-felt the roof and add extra screws to the roof panels. Now the walls have warped due to the hot weather. Would you be able to help please?
Thanks
Matt-
Hi Matt,
Can you send me some pictures of the gapping including photos of the entire exterior and interior wall if possible. Send them to sales@timmersol.co.ukPete
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Only one word I can use to describe you Pete and thats this…..
LEGEND..
Simple as that,Absolute Legend Pete.
Cannot thank you enough for your advice and expertise in my matter its truly truly appreciated.
Be safe be lucky and best regards.
Wayne
I too have an issue with gaps appearing either side of the main door on my cabin but at different heights,i have sent this to the company that erected the cabin nearly 17 months ago and they have said that when the lock down has relaxed somewhat they will send some one out to take a look, but i fear that the gaps will only get bigger/worse i am at a loss as to what it is or could be causing the issue..
any chance i could email you some pictures too for you to give me your thoughts? i would highly appreciate that.
be safe and be lucky all the best
wayne
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Hi Wayne,
As relative humidity levels lower and the logs contract, the gaps will get bigger. Even though the gaps are at different heights it is still usually caused by the notched log above the doors resting on top of the doors and bearing the weight of the roof instead of transferring that weight to all the logs below it keeping them all together . Send me a couple of photos to sales@timmersol.co.uk and I’ll take a look for you.Kind regards,
Pete
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Hi Pete av noticed gaps by roof on 1 corner of my Dunster Severn cabin seem to be getin worse ant rips on rectifying this would be great thanks danny
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